Thursday, March 25, 2010

The sound of coffee

The Bedouin leads a lonely life on the edge of the desert. There are no hotels or restaurants, no news media bringing up to the minute reports. So a visitor is welcome because he brings news – news in exchange for hospitality.

When a visitor arrives, a traveler, he is welcomed. “Sit, sit,” says Achmed the nomad. “I will make coffee.”

Achmed puts a skillet on the fire and throws a handful of coffee beans in to roast. Coffee is a valuable substance, but Achmed will pay for news. He makes small talk with his visitor while the coffee roasts.

When the coffee is roasted, Achmed takes it off the fire. He brings down his mortar and pestle and begins to pound the beans. Achmed is methodical – boom, boom, taka, taka, taka. Boom, boom, taka, taka, taka.

At some distance Hamid, another nomad, hears the sound of coffee. He listens. “Ah,” he says to his brother, “That is Achmed. If it were Nabeel across the way it would be boom taka boom taka boom.” Each man has his own sound of coffee.

The men begin to arrive at Achmed’s tent. There is some jealousy that the visitor chose to stop with Achmed but the scent of news is stronger than the distrust, and the sound of coffee draws them. The visitor is served first. The routine is like the rhythm of the generations. A bitter cup first because it is lonely in the desert. Then a sweet cup because the visitor brings news. And then a bitter cup because he will leave soon.

The small talk is over now. While the women, hidden from view but listening in, prepare a meal, the news is shared.

It may not be earthshaking. A man a days’ walk to the east has a daughter he wants to marry. Ah, Nabeel has a son who needs a wife. Another man, a little close says the visitor, has a herd of sheep he’d like to divide and sell. Achmed’s son wants to enlarge his flock and Hamid’s brother also needs sheep. Then there is news that the tribe to the south are arguing over water. Water is always the source of trouble.


The meal is finally ready and the men sit to eat. A visitor has come and it is an occasion for celebration. The sound of coffee is sweet in the bitter loneliness of the desert.
(Tito’s story told while climbing up the Shephelah from the Dead Sea)

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